Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Err, several! [
]
Mainly ICEMSurf (it’s what I use at work) but also have Solidworks and Catia V5, with access to V4 at work, to name a few!
Why do you ask[?]Yup, designing car from ground up, so one off chassis and bodywork. Engine is currently a Busa lump mainy because that’s the only one I’ve got data for right now, but it anyone knows of CAD info for an R1 or GSXR1000 engine that would suit the car more! [
]Yup, sadly it has to go. [
]
There is another project in the wings, and it is bike engined, but I don’t think that one will see the light of day for a few years yet, it still only exists partially on a CAD screen at the moment!Yup, you certainly can. https://www.zcars.org.uk/ is the place to check first for all bike engined car stuff IMO. They do kits for single and twin engined minis..
More info and video clips of the Smart BECs here, if folks are still interested:
https://www.smartsrus.com/evil_twin_z-cars.htmCheers,
Tim.Yup, you change both at the same time, it’s like a split “T” shape – see pic:
You need to have the levers split in case of missed shifts etc. (the other, shorter, lever further forward is for reverse – the transfer box can also reverse the drive giving 6 reverse gears if required! [
])
Yes, it’s one forward, and five back same as on the bike. All you have is a load of linkages joining the gearlevers in the cockpit to the gear selector wotsits that you’d normally use with your foot. [^]If you’re not in neutral at the time, and you bring the clutch up you’ll end up driving one engine off the other through the transfer box and the engine’s gearbox. At anything much over 20mph this would be enough drag to strip teeth from gearboxes. At low speeds (ie pulling away from lights) if you stall one engine only you can just bump it back into life from the running one which can be kinda handy!
Yep, false neutrals do happen, usually only on one engine at a time, and normally only because you don’t push the levers far enough. It’s not such a problem in a single engine BEC as it is with the twins. A bigger problem is missed shifts where onlty one engine changes gear and the other stays put. This is the only thing stopping me from bolting the gearlevers together, and is quite a frequent problem on track expecially.
Hiya,
Really easy – you just make sure it’s in neutral and hit the kill switch. Can be done whilst driving or stationary. Unfortunatly due to a wiring problem I can’t restart an engine while driving without powering the whole car down and up again
The 2 engines are completely seperate in everything apart from their cooling circuits which are twinned together with Y connectors. The car has seperate wiring looms, controls, displays, and gear selectors for each engine.
All that happens if only one engine is being used is that you go slower! and the other engine has it’s gearbox output shaft spun back via the transfer box – hence the need to be in neutral. If the other engine is in ger it is possible to bumps start it from the running engine – or just strip the teeth out of both gearboxes (which has been done on the yellow car in the forum title picture!)
In practice I never really bother driving on one engine apart from just shunting it about in car parks or similar..
Cheers,
Tim.Yes they are. [
]Even if I switch one of my engines off so am running with iro 70lb/ft torque at the flywheel, it’ll drag my approx 600kilo car along reasonably briskly. With both engines on and 140-150odd lb/ft it will keep up with an R500 with ease. Draw your own conclusions.
Bear in mind that most single engine BECs are iro 400-450kg. Work out the all up weight of a bike, rider, pillion passenger and touring luggage. Then think about the fact that the bike will do 160mph+ (guess) and the single small (blade R1 etc) engine cars are only generally geared for iro 120mph..
I’ll dig around for the techy explanation of this, but it basically boils down to gearing and torque AT THE WHEELS….
Torque doesn’t really matter that much. A car with more torque is less likely to be caught in an unsuitable gear, but a BEC with it’s very closely stacked gears (and a 6 speed box rather than 5) will not be in that situation either.
There is also a more techy argument to do with torque at the wheels which further disproves the “BEC’s have no torque and are therefore useless” theory! [:p]Don’t remember if I used the flash or not – quite possibly though!
the file info tells me all sorts of guff about shutter speed and stuff, but not if the flash was on or not! Ho hum.
The Smart was at the Autosport International sho at the NEC in January. It’s a good show (especially if you can get in the quieter trade days) but mainly racecar type stuff not motorbikes specifically,unless their engines are being used in cars! []Ta, its a Fuji Finepix S602Zoom digi camera. Have a half gig flash card so all sots are taken on a high res setting so can be cropped and sized later without losing quality.
Having said that I only ever leave it set on “Auto” so presumably if I knew what I was doing I could get better pics with it!! []I have put a temp webpage up with the GSXR1000 Smart pics on here:
https://www.just-the-one.net/smart-BEC.htmlFull details of my own car are on my website here:
https://www.just-the-one.net/Cheers,
Tim.
]
]
]