March 8, 2006 at 10:15 am #11652GixParticipant
The following is a simple “how-to” guide that should help in your installation of brake pads. You should read all instructions provided and in your shop manual completely before starting this installation.
1. Start by removing the brake hose holder bolt and both caliper bolts. This will free up the whole caliper.
*NOTE* DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FREELY ON ITS OWN WEIGHT!
2. Slide the caliper off the disc and now you can take a better look.
3. You can actually see the pads without taking it apart if you look underneath the caliper assembly. There is typically a wear indicator or groove down the middle of the pad. The tolerance is down to 0.5mm or 0.02 in.
4. For inspection, cleaning or replacement: remove the two clips holding the brake pad pin in place, slide the pin out, and remove the spring. The pads should fall right out.
*NOTE* TRY NOT TO DEPRESS THE BRAKES WHILE THE PADS ARE REMOVED!
5. Clean any excess dirt and build up on your calipers, pistons, clips, pins and pads and inspect for unusual wear or signs of damage.
6. Now just put everything back together in reverse order. Slide your pads in place, hold the spring over the pads (making sure its in the right direction – see photo above with directional arrow), slide the pin in place and insert the clips.
7. You might need to push the pads into place somewhat before slipping back onto the disc. If worse comes to worse and you can’t get them back over the disc, you may need to bleed your lines a little to get the pistons back down in place.
8. Install caliper bolts, tighten to recommended torque, install the brake holder bolt and you’re ready to go.
BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Tip: Any brake bleeding kit will do just fine but make sure you have a small bucket to put the tiny brake bleeder fluid container in as it is very likely to overflow.
It is actually not very hard to bleed (renew) your own motorcycle brake fluid. This should be done at least every 2 years. Or when the brake fluid turns from clear to a brown to black colour (darker it is, the worse it is).
Brake fluid will eat away at plastic and paint, be sure to cover any paint or plastic that may get splashed with brake fluid. Wipe any spilled fluid with the rag and lots of water.
Step 1: Make sure you have the tools to bleed your brake fluid. The tools you require will vary, but generally this is what you will need:
A. Wrench/Spanner (average 10mm)
B. Brake bleeding kit (rubber fitting, clear hose, small container)
C. Brake fluid overflow container (to put the brake bleeding kit small container in)
E. Brake Fluid (check what type of brake fluid you need for your bike. e.g. DOT 3). Make sure to buy enough brake fluid in the DOT type you require. (500ml should be more than enough).
Step 2: Attach the brake bleeding kit to the brake fluid nipple located on the brake caliper.
Step 3: Loosen the nipple so the fluid is free to flow down the brake bleeding kit tube and into the small container
Step 4: Remove the master cylinder cap (top) so you can monitor and refill more brake fluid into the master cylinder as you bleed the brakes.
Step 5. Pump the brake lever so the old/new brake fluid is forced through the tube into the brake bleeding kit fluid container
Step 6: Keep the volume of the master cylinder constant (near full) as to not have it empty. Keep pumping on the brake lever until the fluid coming out is clear (rather than the old brown/black colour).
Step 7: Once all the tiny air bubbles are gone hold pressure on the brake level and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple to close it off.
Step 8: Replace the master cylinder top cover.
Step 9: Remove the brake bleeding kit from the cliper and use the rag with water to clean up any spillage.
*NOTE THAT THIS IS JUST A SIMPLE GUIDE TO REPLACING WORN PADS AND BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM, IT IS SOMETIMES NECCESSARY TO REPLACE BRAKE PISTON SEALS IN CALIPERS.*
TIP – Once you have changed pads and bled system, pull brake lever towards handle bar as far as you can, then hold in place using a cable tie and leave overnight. This will force any residual air out of the system and should improve firmness of brakes.March 8, 2006 at 1:45 pm #45833Born2BMildParticipant
Thanks for these, mate. How about one on chain maintenance?March 8, 2006 at 2:40 pm #45834GixParticipant
Chain maintanance is pretty much a case of keeping chain lubed and adjusted correctly,adjustments are made by loosening off the rear axle and using the chain adjusters on your swingarm to gauge each side. Also check condition of sprockets cos worn sprockets can accelerate chain wear. If the teeth on the sprockets are hooked or rounded off, its time for new ones. When lubing the chain, lube the top of the chain underneath the swing arm, effectively the inner loop, as centrifugal forces as the chain moves around sprockets, will force the lube into the rollers etc.
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