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hi all, im new here and ive been recommended to this site by a friend.i have a 96 cbr600f and ive noticed a rattle engine side that sounds like a tapping/rattle almost like a lose chain? and sounds like its coming from between the 3 cylnders and the other seperate cyclnder, its not tappets cos once it warms up the rattle/tapping goes, what could it be as im a bit worried:(.
it doesnt seem to affect the motor in any way still pulles very strong and revs clean with no smoke or battle to restart at any time just seems to do it cold(not battle to start that is).
the bike has done just over 26k(miles)and is totally standard and still is very quite, is there any thing is should be paying attention to with the milage its done, correct me if im wrong but 26k isnt alot is it?many thanks inadvance for any help.
couchpatato
Does have an automatic cam chain tensioner? Could be something to do with this.
WElcome to the forum BTW.
hi and thanks.
sounds logical, how do i identify that the tensioner is working or not and will it cost alot to get it fixed or could i do it my self? is it going to damage the engine as i need the bike for daily use.
please advise.couch
Hi Couchpatato and welcome. The camchain on the older cbr’s is known to be a bit weak. They are hydraulic and can “back off” when the throttle is closed suddenly at high rpm. This allows the chain to jump, the camshafts to lose their timing and could result in bent valves and/or serious engine damage. This is a worst-case scenario you understand! Hydraulic tensioners also have a tendency to put too much tension on the chain guide with high rpm, resulting in premature wear. I know there are manual kits out there which the racing boys use. These are effectively a bolt that you wind in to give tension. They would have to have regular maintenance on them though, but it would be a relatively straightforward task. I think the new cbr6 has a beefed up camchain tensioner.
Oherwise your problem could be an oil feed blockage because as the engine warms the oil gets thinner and may then be able to pass up to lubricate the top end of your engine. I’d check if you have enough oil and do an oil and filter change (using a good quality oil) first.
Finally, I use a wooden handled screwdriver to listen to the engine. Wooden end goes to your ear! By touching different areas with the screwdriver blade you can hear where the noise is at its worst and have a better idea of where the problem may lie.
Hope this helps
Oh, and camchain tensioners are usually easy jobs if you can see the tensioner ok. They are normally only held on with 2 bolts and have a gasket on them. No oil comes out when they are removed.
Welcome couch.That screw driver trick works wonders,I use it all the time to listen to my neigbours in their bedroom.
hi guys and thanks for the tips.
When i get this part what should i be asking for?
and how often should i be checking the tension?
What would be the best oil to use on my bike?
Is there something else i should check/replace with the milage my bike has done?.Went to north wales today with 3 friends and had a great day out, the cops seem a bit keen out there, we were pulled twice for no reason just to check our bikes out…whats all that about dont they sell bikes in wales or do they just supercharge thier sheep lol.
anyways thanks for the replys.
Couch
welcome M8
If it is the cam chain Try taking the cam chain tensioner out and submerging it in nice clean engine oil,pump the air out while submerged and then let the plunger fully extend (I have also used brake fluid in the past to flush – but be very careful to flush all the brake fluid away with clean oil afterwards!!!).Put back in bike with a new cam chain tensioner gasket.
Removal instructions – according to Haynes
Removal:
Remove right lower fairing panel. Unscrew three bolts holding the right side engine mounting bracket and remove bracket noting its spacer.Unscrew bolt and sealing washer from end of tensioner. If the Honda locking key or home made equivalent is available, insert it in the end of the tensioner so that it engages the slotted plunger and rotate the plunger fully clockwise, then push the key into the end of the tensioner body to hold it in this position. Remove the two bolts to free the tensioner from the engine.
If the locking key is not available, use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to rotate the plunger fully clockwise and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner body bolts are removed. The plunger will spring back out once the screwdriver is removed, but this can be easily reset on installation.
Discard the gasket; a new one must be used on installation.(Actually you can get away with some carefully applied Hermetite blue). Do not dismantle the tensioner.
Installation:
Ensure the tensioner and cylinder block surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new gasket to the tensioner.If the locking key described above is available, insert it in the tensioner body and rotate the plunger fully clockwise to retract it into the body, then push the key shoulders into the end of the body to lock it. Install the tensioner on the engine and tighten its bolts to the specified torque setting (10 Nm or 7 ft-lbs). Remove the key and install the tensioner end bolt with a new sealing washer.
If the key is not available, rotate the plunger fully clockwise with a flat-bladed screwdriver and hold it in this position whilst the tensioner bolts are installed and fully tightened to the specified torque setting (10 Nm or 7 ft-lbs). Install the tensioner end bolt with a new sealing washer.
Install the fairing support bracket and fairing panel.
hi guys got my new tensioner today from david silver installed it and the rattle has gone.
Ill know tomoz whether its done the job, it certainly has quitened the motor down.[^]
the old tensioner seems to have lost its springyness,the new tensioner has a lot more push than the old one so i would guess this must be the cause of my rattle.
just want to say thanks for all the friendly help i recieved.ill be visiting the site on a daily basis and posting or replying as my knowlage grows on my bike.
many thanks
couch:P
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